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Poll: Have you had charging or USB problems with your N900
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Have you had charging or USB problems with your N900

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#2211
Originally Posted by Texrat View Post
I'm not arguing with your point-- but the soldering job is out of the reach of the average user. Many more could manage an epoxy job. And I have used dispensing needles that are small enough to get to the spots without disassembling the N900.
I thought this was what you would tell me and it has flaws... no arguments here at all between us, we are debating this.

In order to do an epoxy job the area must be cleaned prior to ahesion and you cannot do this through the tiny gap around the usb port.

For a proper expoxy you would have to apply very firmly onto the top sides and rear of the port itself and this is impossible for the reasons i just said.

The average solderer can take the N900 apart and put it back together again as there is a full picture guide to do this.

If only you knew how easy this solder fix is and the results then you would agree with me no epoxy.

When your soldering the sides of the port down to the board it is nothing like you have to do on the rear tiny tracks of the port in any way or form, ths sides are clearly visable and you can do this work without even a magnifier in place.

I have worked with epoxy on many boards to know how problematic it can be and the most important part of this is the preperation prior to applying the epoxy glue to make sure it is not hindered in any way or form with grease as it will fail.
 
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#2212
Originally Posted by ejasmudar View Post
I have just read a few posts in this thread (I plan to cover it more in detail at work tomorrow ), and you're right, I am not at all confident with a soldering iron. So, epoxy is my only choice. Also, disassembling would only be my last choice.

So, my question is, if I use a pin or needle to apply the epoxy to the edges of the usb port without removing the casing, will it be enough? What should I do to prevent gluing the casing shut?
I wouldn't use a regular pin or needle. I'm talking about a hollow solvent dispensing needle on a syringe: http://www.ashbycross.com/syringes.htm (one example)
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#2213
Originally Posted by abill_uk View Post
I thought this was what you would tell me and it has flaws... no arguments here at all between us, we are debating this.

In order to do an epoxy job the area must be cleaned prior to ahesion and you cannot do this through the tiny gap around the usb port.

For a proper expoxy you would have to apply very firmly onto the top sides and rear of the port itself and this is impossible for the reasons i just said.

The average solderer can take the N900 apart and put it back together again as there is a full picture guide to do this.

If only you knew how easy this solder fix is and the results then you would agree with me no epoxy.

When your soldering the sides of the port down to the board it is nothing like you have to do on the rear tiny tracks of the port in any way or form, ths sides are clearly visable and you can do this work without even a magnifier in place.

I have worked with epoxy on many boards to know how problematic it can be and the most important part of this is the preperation prior to applying the epoxy glue to make sure it is not hindered in any way or form with grease as it will fail.
I know how easy re-soldering would be for me and still disagree when it comes to the average owner.

The right epoxy will do the trick. The board should be clean enough; you know that's part of the final PCB assembly process.
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#2214
Originally Posted by Texrat View Post
I wouldn't use a regular pin or needle. I'm talking about a hollow solvent dispensing needle on a syringe: http://www.ashbycross.com/syringes.htm (one example)
And how are you going to scrub clean all around the port? and how are you going to prevent the glue from getting onto the casing inside of ?.
 
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#2215
Originally Posted by Texrat View Post
I know how easy re-soldering would be for me and still disagree when it comes to the average owner.

The right epoxy will do the trick. The board should be clean enough; you know that's part of the final PCB assembly process.
I understand Randall but there is a gap all around the port and anything can get in there, it needs to be scrubbed clean before attempting to epoxy AND you need the pcb out the casing to make sure none of the epoxy even touches the case or you will never be able to get apart the device again without breaking it apart.
 
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#2216
Originally Posted by abill_uk View Post
And how are you going to scrub clean all around the port? and how are you going to prevent the glue from getting onto the casing inside of ?.
Not gonna scrub. Doubt there's actually a need (see previous post). Hollow dispensing needle should get the glop where it needs to go, and care will keep it from going too much farther.

I never said this was an ideal solution, abill_uk. It's only for those unwilling or unable to do more.
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#2217
Here is a pic of the motherboard out of its case for everyone to look at, not my pic i might add but will give you an idea of using epoxy or how easy it is to solder once it is out of the case.
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#2218
If some would come up with a commercial preventive solution for this, I would be willing to pay for peace of mind, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.
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#2219
As of today my USB port is also broken... crap.
 
Posts: 27 | Thanked: 10 times | Joined on Mar 2010
#2220
Today, after 1 year and 6 month usage, my phone's USB port broke. Luckily I'm in Thailand. New port and work did cost only 300THB (7€) and took 'bout 30 minutes.
 
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bad design, broken, charging, failure, hardware, loose, microusb, microusb port, n900, nokia, part, port, repair, return, surface mount, usb, usb port, warranty


 
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